Fast-forward a decade, the post Olympics era saw tourist numbers swell, perhaps initially before the city was quite ready for it. These days however, Barcelona has matured considerably and despite the recent economic downturn, its cosmopolitan streets are flourishing as its neighbourhoods become increasingly more upscale and hip.

The shabby grandeur of the Barri Gòtic has been revitalised, its streets abuzz with exclusive hotels, smart restaurants and slick bars. North of Plaça Catalunya, wide tree-lined boulevards that make up the Eixample district play host to high-end boutiques, while chic hotels such as the Mandarin Oriental on Passeig de Gracia rub shoulders with Gaudi’s greatest architectural works, From the Mandarin’s rooftop terrace you can absorb all of Gaudi’s works in one go, including the astonishing Sagrada Familia, well on its way to being completed.

Each barrio has its own distinct personality, but the size of each neighbourhood and their proximity to each other mean that Barcelona is better discovered on foot. Try to avoid Las Ramblas though, except when visiting the Boqueria Market, for while food markets in Barcelona form the beating heart of the city – every barrio has one – nowhere beats quite like this one. Pay a visit in the morning when the crowds are thinner and the stalls are piled high with fresh produce, brightly coloured juices, and those ubiquitous legs of Iberico ham hanging in lines as far as the eye can see, The bars offer superb ringside seats and an opportunity to rest weary limbs and taste seasonal tapas. El Quim is a local favourite where you can sample solid Catalan fare such as black rice and baby squid with eggs.

A wander around the El Born district takes you to small sun-dappled cobbled streets, dotted with independent boutiques and artisan cafés, the Picasso Museum showing the artist’s formative works, and the lush Pare de la Ciutadella. During the last week of September the Ciutadella hosts much of the city’s La Mercé Festival, Barcelona’s biggest annual festival, with daily free concerts, fireworks and events. Next door, in front of the colossal Arc de Triomf, the celebrated Mostra de Vins i Caves de Catalunya features open-air wine and cava tasting from first thing in the morning until last thing at night.

such as the Mercer Hotel and Hotel Ohla mean that staying in this part of town doesn’t necessitate scrimping on comfort or space. Tucked down a quiet shady street that criss-crosses the gothic quarter, not far from the Cathedral, Hotel Mercer’s origins date back over 2,000 years. A contemporary vision has transformed ancient Roman walls and former medieval residences into a 5-star boutique hotel that boasts a sun-drenched rooftop pool and gourmet restaurant. Hotel Ohla has provided a forward-thinking facelift to busy thoroughfare Via Laietana. A thousand-piece sculpture spills down the hotel’s façade boosting Barcelona’s reputation for creativity and design. Chef Xavier Franco heads up the hotel’s Michelin-starred Saüc restaurant, while award-winning mixologists serve cocktails on the rooftop terrace overlooking a glass-sided swimming pool and city panoramas.

Barcelona and its people are serious about food, and the city has some of the world’s most inventive cuisine. From beach bars and bodegas to Michelin-starred eateries, the cooking, whether molecular, modern or traditional, relies on the region’s excellent produce. The 2-Michelin starred Enoteca is the crowning jewel at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel Arts in Barceloneta, run by one of
Catalonia’s most acclaimed chefs Paco Perez (winner of no less than 5
Michelin stars).

Vermut has become the city’s drink du jour, What was once a pre-lunch aperitif to wash down a bowl of olives or almonds, is revelling in its moment of fame.The best place to try it is at Ferran Adria’s Bodega 1900, accompanied by their specialty spherical olives.

Located in the barrio of Sant Antoni (otherwise known as el Barri Adria — the neighbourhood of the Adria brothers), dinner could follow at one of the brothers’ many restaurants that are sprinkled around the area. Famed tapas restaurant Tickets, a circus-like homage to the area’s old theatre district, is well worth the hype (and the wait-advanced booking is essential), If you can’t get a table, either Pakta (Peruvian-Japanese) or Hoja Santa (Mexican) is only a short walk away. The string of beaches, situated right next to the urban buzz of the city, is poignantly marked by the LU Hotel’s magnificent sail shape rising out of the sand, which has reshaped the architectural landscape of the city.

In summer the hotel’s Wet Bar is a seductive place to enjoy some poolside drinking and eating with a sea view. Up on the 26th floor, as the sun goes down, the Eclipse Bar gets going, as international DJs turn up the heat and well-heeled clientele dance the night away against a jaw-dropping city scene.

Don’t be afraid to venture down to the sea during winter, when cooler temperatures and clear blue skies add an inspirational backdrop to a coastal stroll. When hunger beckons, Xiringuito Escribà is the leader of the beachfront restaurant pack for seafood paella, and the place to enjoy a long lazy lunch amid well turned-out locals.